Medicine Bow Peak

I think that Medicine Bow Peak is one of Wyoming'd best kept secrets. The Snowy Range mountains is a gorgeous small mountain range just 30 minutes east of Laramie, so named because it does hold onto snow for most of the year. This year snow was present on Medicine Bow all year due to the record-setting snowfall that Wyoming received last winter. The range's close proximity to the Rockies means it gets much of the same weather, including the violent afternoon thunderstorms that the highest peaks in the Rockies are known for. In this small, isolated range Medicine Bow is the highest peak at just over 12,000 feet, and is visible from nearly every trail in the Snowies. I spent a good deal of time in the Snowies this summer, and have dozens of photographs of this peak from just about every angle. Having completed most of the trails around the peak it was about time I actually climbed the peak itself.

Lookout Lake

There are three popular trails that one can take to the top of Medicine Bow Peak, two of which can be combined to make a seven mile loop, which is the one I opted to take. This is definitely the most interesting of all the trails because it starts by following the shore of scenic Lookout Lake, reaches the summit in only 2.7 miles, travels across the long ridge line of the peak, and then ends at scenic Lake Marie. The only drawback to this route is that there is a small window of time when it can be done. In snowy years like this one this route probably involved crossing a snowfield for 11 of the last 12 months, and even on my hike there were still a few patches of snow off the trail. The other challenge is the afternoon thunderstorms that are an almost daily occurrence here all summer that usually bring deadly lightening strikes and hail. The loop trail leaves you above treeeline and completely exposed for about 3.0 miles, which is a long time to be without cover if a storm quickly moves in. So it is highly recommended that this hike be done early in the day, and that all hikers are off the summit by noon. This is why I waited until September to climb this peak, and I'm glad I did.

A Yellow-bellied Marmot

A small alpine pond

I climbed this peak on September 27, on the most perfect day anyone could ask for to climb an alpine peak. I camped out the night before at about 9000 feet, and it was such a clear, calm night that I slept without my tent's rain fly on for the first time all summer. I started on the trail at about 9:30 from the Mirror Lake picnic area, and already there were half a dozen people ahead of me. The trail climbs gradually for the first two miles, traversing the shore of Lookout lake for the first mile and then passing a few pretty small ponds. In the summer this trail is just surrounded by many different wildflowers, but this time of year a few asters are all that remain in bloom. At the first lake I was able to get very close to a marmot that was perched on the boulders and snap some good photos. At 2 miles you reach a junction with the Lewis Lake trail, which had quite a bit of traffic on it and seemed a bit more popular than the trail I was on. At this point the real climbing begins as a narrow trail winds it's way up through a boulder field to reach the rocky summit. This is the point where you realize what an undertaking a 12,000 foot peak is, because it becomes very difficult to breathe. I felt like I was going at a snail's pace, walking 50 feet at a time and needing a rest the whole way up, but everyone else was moving at the exact same pace if not slower. Having to rest is a good thing, though, because it gives you lots of time to take in the spectacular view below you. From this point in the trail you are looking down at dozens of lakes with crystal clear reflections of the deep blue sky, numerous smaller peaks, the length of Medicine Bow's ridgeline, and the Rockies in the distance to the south. I daresay it is the most spectacular view I've ever had from a peak. In the last tenth of a mile the boulders become larger and finding the path becomes a little trickier, but eventually those large boulders lead you to the ridge and you can finally see the view to the west, which just goes on forever. A few hundred feet more of boulders and you are at the summit, in awe of the 360 degree view. There were probably six other groups of people up there with me, but the summit is so broad that you can easily find your own space. I found a flat boulder to sit on and enjoyed my lunch and the view. 

View to the south

View to the west

There were about 20 ravens playing in the wind on the summit, a constant game of riding the wind for the length of the ridge and then flying back to the beginning to start the ride all over again, I kept my eye on them to see if there were any raptors mixed in, as September is the beginning of raptor migration and raptors are often seen on peaks with long north-south ridgelines like Medicine Bow because they can use the strong wind currents at high altitudes to carry them south with little effort. Watching groups of ravens will often lead you to a raptor because the ravens love harassing migrating hawks and eagles, which seems rather cruel since these birds are trying to travel hundreds to thousands of miles while expending as little energy as possible. Sure enough I found the ravens harassing two birds in the short time I was up there. The first was a migrating Sharp-shinned hawk, and the second was a Golden Eagle. I wish I could have stayed up there longer to see more, but I had more miles ahead of me than I had behind, so I had to get going.

Trail along the peak's ridgeline

From the summit you drop down a few hundred feet and then walk an almost level path across the ridgeline of Medicine Bow peak for the next 3 miles. There are small ups and downs along the way, but it is mostly easy walking through grassy alpine meadows. The view along the way is mostly to the east and south, with Bridger Peak standing out just to the west. At this point is was after noon, and the sun was starting to disappear behind clouds that were starting to look more and more ominous. I started to feel very vulnerable because I still couldn't see the end of the ridge and there wasn't a tree anywhere in my view. I started to pick up my pace, but I couldn't outrun the clouds. Fortunately when it did begin to rain it was fairly light, and when it began to hail it was fairly small in size. But it was still a relief when I finally started to see patches of fir trees again, which is the point at which the trail begins it's rapid descent down to Lake Marie. About a half mile from the lake there is a spectacular view from a vantage point just above the lake that looks back at Medicine Bow peak and Lookout lake. The final descent to the lake is rough on the knees but worth the view, and I had a nice look at some Pine Grosbeaks along this stretch. Lake Marie was bustling with people, as it is a very popular spot. From the lake there is still one more mile to go, along a paved trail that connects Lake Marie to the Mirror Lake picnic area. Along that stretch I saw a pair of Gray Jays, no doubt hanging around hoping for some handouts, but they're one of my favorite birds just the same. I got back to the car at about 3:00, so the entire trip was about 5.5 hours. 

View from above Lake Marie

Having hiked all over the country I have to say this is one my the most spectacular hikes I've done. Climbing to the top of Medicine Bow is a fairly easy hike, especially if you take the shorter Mirror Lake or Lewis lake trails in and out. But I highly recommend the extra effort to take the loop trail, as the walk along the ridge really makes you appreciate the enormity of this peak. Just be sure to start early and be off the summit by noon, because even the clearest of mornings can still give way to dangerous storms. A few days after my hike snow fell once again in the aptly-named Snowy Mountains, so I'm extremely grateful to have had such a perfect day for this hike.

Summit view